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Canada to Mexico 2005 Aaron’s Ride Journal September 30, 2005: Mexicali, Mexico: Mile 1955
What just happened? Did we really just ride nearly 2000 miles from
Canada to Mexico? Maybe it was 3 days of cycling in the desert, but right now I
feel pretty confused.
The last day was adrenaline charged. The entire day was completely flat
(the first portion was along the Salton Sea, which is a surreal body of water
in the middle of the desert sitting just below sea level), so Eric, Tim and
I got into paceline formation and finished the first 50 miles in just
under 3 hours. It was basically a race to beat the heat that was sure to take
over around noon... and take over it did. By noon, we passed a thermometer
that read 105 degrees. The last 30 miles should have been celebratory, but
they were overshadowed by extreme discomfort. Not many words were exchanged
as we pedaled through the sweltering heat and stench of cattle ranches (cattle
in the desert?) and putrid sulphur odor. The last 20 miles were a mental
game, where I was talking to myself constantly begging for my mind to stay
sharp. I would just stare at my cycling computer and watch the miles eek by at a
seemingly snails pace. It was brutal. Finally, we rolled into Calexico,
and celebrated by sharing a 40oz bottle of Tecate, complete with brown paper
bag. As we went to cross the border, Eric discovered that he had a FLAT TIRE!
Talk about bad timing. A few minutes later we were rolling again and rode
through the border crossing to Mexicali. I felt so overwhelmed with emotion and
excitement as we dodged the traffic in this chaotic but charming town.
After photos were taken, we found a small bar and had tequila shots and
discussed the trip. We could have sat there for hours and reflected, but we were
exhausted, so we packed up the bikes and headed out to find a hotel
room.
Am I happy that I won't have to get on the bike tomorrow? Am I sad that
this amazing journey is now over? A little of both. There is just too much to
process right now. So many stories to tell, so many experiences to
share. I'm not sure at this point how this trip has effected me, but one thing is
for certain. It has had a profound effect on me. I think what I will
remember most is seeing the changes in landscape, people and culture as we rolled
through so many towns and cities along the coast. When you're seeing
these things at 10-30 mph on a bike, they are absorbed so much more completely
when in an automobile.
This week I'm going to spend some time on the beach in San Diego, then
drive (WHEW!) to Arizona and Southern Utah to see some national parks. Check
back in a week or so. I'll post photos and video from each day, and provide
some closing thoughts and final stats (you will not believe some of them).
Thanks to everybody who sent emails and voice mails of encouragement throughout
the trip. I know that this just seemed like a bike ride along the coast, but
there were points when I was literally at the mental breaking point, and
those little sentiments kept me going for one more day.
_____________________________________________________________________ September 29, 2005: Mecca, CA: Mile 1865 Amazing ride through Joshua Tree National Park (my favorite NP). Such a surreal and beautiful place. After a 25 mile descent, we rolled into the town of Mecca with a mostly Mexican population. (made a few friends that asked about our trip after seeing our van). At 250ft below sea level, temp 105. _____________________________________________________________________ September 28, 2005: Yucca Valley, CA: Mile 1775 125 mile ride through the Mojave Desert. One of the most physically and mentally challenging days of my life. _____________________________________________________________________ September 27, 2005: Palmdale, CA: Mile 1650 Over 100 miles in the mountains today... with a cold. But we finally made it to the valley. Very hard day. We're all feeling it. Staying in a hotel that feels luxurious compared to last night's hell hole. We got cat-called by a car full of young women. That was our pathetic ego boost for the day. _____________________________________________________________________ September 26, 2005: Camuya, CA: Mile 1540
_____________________________________________________________________ September 25, 2005: San Luis Obispo, CA: Mile 1450
_____________________________________________________________________ September 24, 2005: Lucia, CA: Mile 1365 95 miles on some of the most stunning coastline in the country (Big Sur area). Very hilly and difficult ride. No place to stay tonight so we're camping in a state park (made our own campsite). You can see every star in the sky and hear the ocean from our spot on this hill. _____________________________________________________________________ September 23, 2005: Aptos, CA: Mile 1270 Tailwinds rule. Very fast ride down the coast from San Fran with a hard and steady wind at our backs. 35mph on the flats and 45mph descents were the order of the day. Terrain is changing quickly as we move south. Becoming more arid. Camping by beach. I can hear the waves as I lay in my tent. _____________________________________________________________________ September 22, 2005: San Francisco, CA: Rest Day 2 Had a nice day in and around San Fran today. Spent some time at the Fishermans Wharf and in the Berkley area which is where we are staying. Also made our standard stops at REI and a bike shop for supplies and bike adjustments. I bought 2 more tires. I should have bought stock in rubber before I came out here. The new tires I bought in Portland already have small slashes in them. They should be good for the next couple hundred miles, but once we get into the desert, I don't want to take any chances. Having dinner at Kelly's cousin Matt's house tonight in Berkley. Very nice guy. _____________________________________________________________________ September 21, 2005: San Francisco, CA: Mile 1185
_____________________________________________________________________ September 20, 2005: Jenner, CA: Mile 1100 Very hilly and difficult ride today. Tim and I rode the whole day together. We shared grumbles about the hills every 5 miles or so. At about mile 50, he looked at me and said "we still have 40 miles left". We just grumbled more. We met the van at about mile 80, and Bill our driver for the 2nd leg said that he'd meet us in 10 miles in the town of Jenner. Little did we know that the next 10 miles would be the most technical, treacherous and exciting of the trip. They were through winding roads, with cliffs in excess of 400 feet (no guardrails for the most part), guys having fun in their expensive sports cars, and to top it off, there were cows wandering around on the roads! When we got to the peak of one stretch, we looked below us and saw a 5 mile descent snaking below us. Tim took the lead as we overtook the lane to avoid cars from passing (the speed limit was 25, we were going 30+, they could wait). One tense moment involved a cement truck barreling down on Tim as he stood his ground. Finally, when the truck passed him, he immediately caught up to the truck and cursed the bastard that busted his heavenly descent for a moment! Jenner is a cool little town on a bay that also has a view of the ocean. We're staying in some quaint little cabins with a wonderful view. In my opinion, these are our best accommodations yet. San Fran Tomorrow. _____________________________________________________________________ September 19, 2005: Little River, CA: Mile 1010 Great ride today. Felt very strong during a very long 1000ft climb. Payoff was awesome... a 10 mile winding descent to the coast. Great brunch with some fellow tourers from Vancouver. Camping tonight. Camped among redwoods last night. Amazing. _____________________________________________________________________ September 18, 2005: Bembow, CA: Mile 935
If there is a heaven, it looks a lot like Avenue of the Giants in
Northern California. It's a 30 mile road through some of the largest and oldest
redwoods in the United States. It was one of the most beautiful rides,
and one of the most amazing days of my life. I got teary eyed when we had to
leave the park. It was really that amazing. I think this is something
that everybody should see. It will stay with you for a very, very long time.
Seeing it on bike was such a wonderful way to take in all of the
grandeur of this park. Some of the trees are up to 1500 years old. I felt
insignificant among them.
In the last entry of my training journal, I mentioned that I was
mentally prepared for this trip but not sure about physically. I'm finding the
opposite to be true. I feel like a machine on the bike. There are long
stretches of time that I forget that I'm even riding. The true challenge
is the mental aspect. This is so much more than a ride down the coast. I'm
not sure if I'll ever be able to explain what one puts themselves through to
accomplish something like this. There are certainly times when you ask
yourself why you're putting yourself through this. Eight hours of hard
and stressful exercise a day and the almost constant stress of passing
vehicles and bike troubles takes its toll on you. This has not been a pleasure
cruise. Some days have been good. Some have been bad. Some have been very bad.
Some have been good and bad and then good again 10 times over. I just keep
thinking of the final goal. I think we all are.
_____________________________________________________________________ September 17, 2005: Eureka, CA: Mile 845 Difficult ride today. About 20 miles of climbing in heavy fog and cold drizzle. But the payoff was great. Began our ride through giant redwood country One of the most beautiful things I have ever seen. Was by myself for much of the day. Lots of time to reflect. Camping tonight. _____________________________________________________________________ September 16, 2005: Crescent City, CA: Mile 765 Cold, rainy, windy ride over the Cali border. Glad to be in a warm (yet crappy) hotel room. Frightening encounter with a pissed-off meth junkie in OR. We were all shaken, but ok. Watch "The Salton Sea". That will give you an idea of what this guy was like. Overall, not a great day. _____________________________________________________________________ September 15, 2005: Humbug Mt Park, OR: Mile 685 Today was a much needed gift. Perfect 70 deg w/ blue skies. Legs felt strong and morale was high. Met an interesting cycle tourer named Peter. Quite a character. Camping by one of the most beautiful beaches I have ever seen. _____________________________________________________________________ September 14, 2005: Winchester Bay, OR: Mile 595 The relentless stream of passing tractor trailers & RVs wore on our sanity today. A 20mph headwind for 15+ miles prior to the coast didn't help. Not much conversation. I snapped at Tim at end of ride, but he understood. We were all spent. Yet, I dread the day we reach Mexico. Camping tonight. _____________________________________________________________________ September 13, 2005: Junction City, OR: Mile 505 Very long but enjoyable 120 mile ride from Portland today. Beautiful, seemingly endless vistas. Funny moment when Eric and I fought for position behind Tim to avoid getting hit by a huge farm sprayer. 2 more flat tires. Legs feel great, but hands and wrists hurt. Tomorrow we head toward coast. _____________________________________________________________________ September 12, 2005: Portland, OR: Rest Day 1 Well, today was supposed to be a rest day, but we ended up running around taking care of bike repairs and stocking up on supplies. I picked up an extra set of tires and 4 new tubes, since I've had such bad luck with flats so far. Also got a tune-up, so hopefully the bike will be a little tighter for the next leg. The last leg was 5 days. This leg is 9. I've been trying to, as Eric would say "fatten up" for the next leg. I've eaten piles of high-calorie food all day, including eggs, bacon, biscuits with gravy, mac and cheese, sausage and about 3 beers. I've already lost about 8 pounds, so I'm concerned about how much I'm going to lose in the weeks to come. It's basically impossible to eat the amount of calories that you burn in an 8+ hour day of cycling, so you try to eat as much and as often as possible to maintain. I slept in Ian and Kate's back yard last night (in my tent) and was awaken by a critter scratching at the screen window next to my head. I was startled at first, but then realized it was their cat Otis paying me a visit. Went to eat at a cool place called Montage tonight. Met my old friends Kevin and Michelle there who now live just outside of Portland. I need to get some rest. Tomorrow is going to be a long day. Possibly 100 miles. Back to business. _____________________________________________________________________ September 11, 2005: Portland: Mile 385
Today was a big day. Very, very difficult mentally and physically, but
we made it to Oregon, which
was a big reward for the week's work. We're staying at Ian's place... a
very cool little 1940's era
bungalow filled with eclectic art. He was with us from Vancouver, and
now he unfortunately has to go
back to the daily grind. We're also losing Lauren and Ian's brother
Jason, but we've gained Todd, who
is planning on riding from here to Mexico with us.
So back to the day's ride. Originally, we had planned on today being an
easy 60 mile ride, followed
by a rest day in Portland. The morning was cold and damp, but as the day
went on, the mist burned
off and the sun shined down on us. All was relatively well until we hit
an extremely difficult 2 mile
climb at mile 35ish. From there, things got tough. I was tired, looking
forward to the end, and quite
frankly, my ass was really starting to hurt... and I got another flat
tire to top it all off. At about mile
45, we stopped by the van to grab some snacks and regroup. Eric, Tim and
I had a beer thinking we
were 15 minutes from the ride's end. Wrong. After finishing the beer, we
realized that it was another
35 miles to our destination. This was a painful 35 miles. About 8 of the
35 miles were in a very quiet
and fast pace line (when riders get into a straight line to reduce wind
resistance. Each rider takes his
turn at the front to block the other riders from the wind). At one point
Tim looked at me, laughed
and said "your face says it all". Crossing the border into Oregon helped
our spirits, but then we
realized that we still had another 15 miles to go. All of us jumped off
our bikes and fell into Ian's
grass when we got to his house. I'm really glad tomorrow is a rest day.
We went to eat at this really
cool place Northeast of Portland that was in an old school house. Very
cool, artistic, a bit creepy
(ghosts of WWII era kids playing hopscotch perhaps?). So far, Portland
seems like a great town. We'll
head into the city tomorrow, take our bikes in for tune-ups (our bikes
have taken a beating as you
can imagine). The house is packed, so I'm going to roll out the sleeping
bag in the back yard and
sleep under the stars. Hope no critters crawl in the bag with me.
_____________________________________________________________________ September 10, 2005: Castle Rock, WA: Mile 305 Cold, rainy, miserable ride today. Several frightening dog encounters. I think every house around here has a loose dog! Last 15 miles were decent. We're staying close to Mt St Helens at the Timberland Inn. Tomorrow we ride to Portland. Monday is our first rest day. _____________________________________________________________________ September 9, 2005: Elma, WA: Mile 223 Celebrated end of days ride with tequilla shots. Fast ride w/ Tim and Eric. The team is really coming together. Was overcast w/ a little rain. About 60 deg. 2 flat tires today! Going to put new ones on tomorrow. Old ones getting thin. Got a good scare from a log truck. Not fun. Camping tonight. _____________________________________________________________________ September 8, 2005: Silverdale, WA: Mile 150
_____________________________________________________________________ September 7, 2005: Anocortes, WA: Mile 73 Lying in my tent after a great day of riding and a pizza and beer dinner. Saw some beautiful sights... and got chased by a pitt bull! Was really cool crossing the US border. I can't even imagine how much we're going to see in the next 3 weeks. Check out Eric's journal (bike2mexico.com) He has pics. _____________________________________________________________________ September 6, 2005: Vancouver: Tomorrow We Begin We're here in Vancouver, staying at a place called the the Ocean Promenade Hotel. Has been a busy day, running from Seattle to the hotel in Canada, picking up last minute supplies, TRYING to see some of the city. (It is an amazing city and beautiful area, as is Seattle). Had dinner at a little Japanese diner in town called "Guu with Garlic". Bizarre name, interesting food. Not exactly what I had in mind for a pre-ride day meal, but it did the trick and was a great opportunity for the group to share ride stories and talk about the trip.
Tomorrow is the big day. We will start a few miles north of the Canadian border and begin the 65ish
miles that will be our first leg on the trip. There will be 6 of us riding. Eric, Tim, Melba, Lauren, Jason, Ian and myself. We've spent so much time running around the past couple of days, so I'm really
itching to get on that bike and just ride! _____________________________________________________________________ September 5, 2005: Seattle
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